SV Sine Timore: Bonanza

Playa La Bonanza, BCS, Mexico

After 3 nights in Ensenada Grande, it was time to move on.

The reason for our journey north was to try and get a better angle on the crossing of the Sea of Cortez to the town of Topolobampo. The decision to go there was quite arbitrary and we are now considering the folly of our ways. I have sent emails to the new marina in Topo but have not receive any reply - there is probably room but no guarantee. Our intent was to possibly visit the Copper Canyon which is not far from Topo but having talked to other cruisers who have been there, it appears this might not be the best season - it is at high altitude and could be quite cold. Since our real plan is to head further south, we are starting to think we had better get busy and start moving that way instead. Reinforcing this decision was the arrival of the dreaded Coromuel winds in Ensenada Grande last night.

Ensenada Grande had been just about the perfect anchorage for us for the first two days. Lovely weather with light north winds. We had a chance to try out our new dinghy and it is proving to be a terrific asset. Our little 5hp Mercury outboard really makes this dinghy fly, ever with the two of us in it, and it seems much more stable than our old dinghy. As a bonus it seems to be a little lighter and easier to manhandle onto the deck as well.

We used the dinghy to explore the shoreline around the anchorage, and discovered an abundance of sea life. Beautiful sand beaches and warm water make beachcombing a paradise.

Last night however, everything changed. Around 11PM a moderate southwest wind came up. Ensenada Grande, along with most every other anchorage on the west coast of these islands, is completely open to the southwest and the surge pounds in whenever the wind blows from that direction (probably why they have these terrific beaches here). Needless to say we had a very restless night with the boat hobby-horsing up and down and the anchor chain growling on some rocks below. This morning, we made the decision that we needed to be someplace else by tonight. Our only real option, other than heading further north, was to circle around to the other side of the island and head south to a huge beach called Playa La Bonanza. This place is quite exposed from the east and south, but reasonably protected from the north and west - we hope we will not regret this decision. The journey down here was done entirely by motor, as we needed to charge the batteries and it only took a little over 3 hours - a lot shorter than when we were trying to sail the other way. At least we should have lots of hot water so we can have some nice showers tonight.

We are now anchored in about 14 feet of water with 125 feet of chain out. The wind is gusting from the northeast but there is little or no swell hitting us - so far so good. There are no other boats here at all! I wonder if they know something we don't?

Tomorrow we may make the big break and head SE, across to Mazatlan, some 180 miles away. This will be at least a 2 day trip for us. We will wait to see what the weather report is before proceeding.