SV Sine Timore: In the Oven

La Paz, BCS, Mexico

Interesting note: A couple of years ago, we spent some time in another city called La Paz; that one in Bolivia. There the similarity ends! While La Paz, Bolivia was cool, even in the middle of summer, this La Paz is exactly the opposite; hot all of the time.

Baked Susanne

Besides the heat during day (which is unreal), the other factor that takes some getting used to, is the extreme change in temperature between day and night. While we are seeing daytime highs in excess of 40C for the hours from about 2 to 5 PM, at night it typically drops down to around 20 degrees. You sit around and bake all day and then you need to snuggle up under a blanket at night. Actually I guess it is sort of a blessing because at least you are able to sleep well without all that heat.

Needless to say, we have not been wandering around much during the daylight hours. So most of what we have seen of La Paz has been at night. We have some good friends, Jim and Leta from the sailing vessel Panoya, who we met in Mazatlan and who were conveniently also here in La Paz for the last week. They are driving back to the US now, but they were kind enough to drive us around on a little tour of La Paz, ostensibly going out for dinner, on two separate nights. Thus we got to eat at a couple of places that are outside of our normal walking range and we have a bit of an orientation of how the city is laid out. Basically La Paz seems to be a more prosperous place than Mazatlan but a bit more expensive as a result.

The only people who do seem to wander around during the heat of the day are the Gringos like us. I think there was some line about Mad Dogs and Englishmen that is appropriate. The Mexicans wisely close everything down between about 1:30 and 3:00 in the afternoon.

We also ran into one other couple, Roger and Margaret on SV Sandpiper, at a Rock and Roll night at the La Costa restaurant just a block down the street from our marina. It is always nice to meet people you know in foreign lands. And as for the entertainment, these guys were very good, playing an interesting mix of soft rock and oldies but goodies hard rock by groups like Cream. Very danceable if you are into that type of physical exertion. They play until cruiser's midnight, which is around 10PM.

Because of the heat, our days have been pretty simple. In the morning, before the real heat sets in, we usually find someplace for breakfast, either the Dockside Cafe right here in the marina (see picture to the left), or at one of the many little restaurants within a block or two. Then back to the boat to tackle any little boat projects, or just read or play games on the computer until it is time for a siesta. In the evening, we sometimes eat in (if we wait long enough for it to cool off enough to maybe turn on the stove) or, more often, head for another of the restaurants for supper. Lots of good, inexpensive food nearby makes it difficult to justify staying on the boat. Once we make it to the Sea, there won't be many more opportunities.

Then, as the sun sets and a cool wind comes up from the SE, the temperature is just perfect for taking a walk down the Malecon (the beach sidewalk that runs for a couple of miles and starts right outside our marina). During the day, there is hardly a soul to be seen, but at night everyone comes out to walk, cycle, rollerblade, etc., while a continuous stream of traffic cruises up and down the street, past the restaurants and nightclubs that probably don't get started until long after we are back on the boat and fast asleep. It sort of reminds us of scenes from the movie American Graffiti.

It looks fine, just doesn't work!

As for our plans, we are in a waiting mode again. After many emails back and forth with the Comnav Autopilot people and finally the Octopus Pump people back in Vancouver, we confirmed what I had already decided was the problem with the autopilot - the pump is broken! So, now we are waiting for the UPS burro to bring a new pump down from Canada.

Meanwhile, I took the backup CPT autopilot apart and, with some carefully aimed blows, I was able to get it working again. For how long and how reliable I am not sure, but should be better than nothing, in case I never see the new pump.

I have also ordered a new Amazon Kindle ebook reader, which according to their tracking system, is now somewhere on the Baja peninsula, and with any luck I will see it early next week. I suspect the pump will take a little longer, simply because it is the more important piece.

Since I keep forgetting to carry my camera with me when we wander around, here are a few quick pictures from around the marina to prove we are really here.