Hard to leave

Day 15 - Newport, Oregon, USA

The weather here in Newport has been good.  A little cool at night but just lovely during the day.  Makes it very hard to leave for unknown ports further south.  Looking at the weather reports we have decided that tomorrow, Wednesday, would be our last chance before the winds start shifting to come from the south again.

We made the trip into town to the marine chandler today to pick up some more fuel filters.  We now have new filters in both of the Racor units, and 9 spares.  That better be enough.

One of the things we have noticed here at the marina is that, since we arrived, no other transient boats have arrived or left.  This probably means we are on the tail end of the season for boats going down this coast, or maybe no-one ever bothers to stop here in Newport.  Regardless, it appears that out of the 4 boats at the transient dock, we are most likely going to the be the first to leave if we go tomorrow.  Not sure what that means.

Hopefully the next post will be from Coos Bay.

{GMST}44|37.4337|N|124|3.1412|W|Newport, Oregon|Newport, Oregon{GEND}

Wasting away in Newportville

Days 13 and 14 - Newport, Oregon, USA

We have spent some quality time here in Newport, seeing the local sights and waiting for our next weather window to continue south.

This is a great place to spend some time.  The marina is inexpensive, about .50/foot/night including unlimited power and water, free internet (in the laundry room) and a free bus-pass to get you around town.  And there is a great pub/restaurant overlooking the marina.  It doesn't get much better than this.

We have visited the Marine Sciences center and the Newport aquarium, which are both a short walk from the marina.  The aquarium is actually pretty impressive and worth a visit.

We took the bus (free bus passes provided by the marina) to the other side of the bay where most of the actual town is, including the bayfront walkway and marine chandlers.  I bought a couple of new fuel filters at NAPA but we have found a better source and will go back again to get more.  Now that I know of a potential problem, I want to be extra sure I have the solution.

The bayfront here is apparently one of the favorite stops for the California Sea Lions.  They make quite a lot of noise all day - we can hear it quite well from across the bay.  A lot of tourists come here to see them.

Another feature of the bayfront walkway is the "Fisherman's walk", with plaques for all of the people who have been lost at sea from this port.  A bit of a sobering message.

We met the owner of one of the other transient boats and he has had quite a rough time getting here.  He has only come from Portland and this is his first time out in the ocean.  He is single-handing and was sick, lost his autopilot, experienced a couple of accidental gybes which have compromised both his main and foresail and then his engine quit.  He was towed into Newport by the Coast Guard.  After hearing his story, I don't think we have anything to complain about.

We are hoping to get out of here in the next couple of days, probably leaving in the late afternoon, doing an overnight passage to Coos Bay, further south along the Oregon coast.  We need both a good weather window and a good "bar" report before we go.

 

{GMST}44|37.4337|N|124|3.1412|W|Newport, Oregon|Newport, Oregon{GEND}

A good day at sea

Day 12 - Tillimook Bay to Newport, Oregon

We woke up early this morning in the hopes that the bar would be open.  Our prayers were answered - not only was it open but it was only restricted for boats less than 20' - that is almost as good as it gets around here.

So, we left our moorage at 7:15AM and were across the bar by 8:00 AM.  Had to dodge about a hundred small boats that were fishing between the jetties over the bar - I have no idea why this would be a good place to catch fish.  With the number of fishing boats present, the fish don't stand a chance!

Soon after leaving the bay, we passed Cape Meares (interesting rock formations), and continued on our way towards Newport, our original destination two days ago.

The problem with trying to harbour hop down this coast is that in order to time the bar crossings for a flood or slack current (depending on what works best for the particular entry), you have to be able to maintain a certain speed if you are to get from one place to another during daylight hours.  We are loath to try an entry into one of these tricky bars at night - heck; we are scared of them during the day for that matter.  The result is that we are really just a motor vessel for all intents and purposes.  Today we had to maintain at least 6.5 knots to be able to leave Tillimook bay at daybreak and get to Newport by 6 PM.  With the light NW winds we are encountering, this means using the engine all the way.  I guess we are just wimpy sailors after all.

Today's passage was almost letter perfect (other than the lack of sailing).  We had only about 7 foot swells and 1 or 2 foot wind-waves - pretty smooth for open ocean.  We still rock and roll a lot, but you get used to it.  Susanne had no problems today at all, and the conditions were not that much different from the previous passage, so we are not sure why she got so sick that time - most probably just nerves.  When the day started out it looked as if it could have gone either way, but in the afternoon it actually became clear and sunny, if still a little cool.

The only minor problem we had today was with the engine.  Several times it just lost RPMs, then picked up again each time, without any change to the throttle.  "Ah ha", I exclaimed.  I remembered reading about boats having this problem.  With all the extremely rough conditions we have encountered over the last couple of weeks, most likely the sediment at the bottom of the fuel tank has gotten stirred up and the fuel filter is clogging up.

We launched the genoa and shut down the engine for about 15 minutes and I proceeded to replace the fuel filter on the primary Racor unit. We have basically 3 fuel filters on this boat, two identical Racors and the original Isuzu fuel filter on the engine itself, all in a series.  I replaced the first filter in the sequence on the assumption that it was the most likely one to be affected first.  Indeed, it did not look too good when I took it out.  Believe it or not, this is the first time I have ever replaced a fuel filter on this, or the old, engine. I suppose that does seem a little silly in retrospect and I suppose I should have replaced all the filters before we started on this quest.  Hey, nobody is perfect!  The good news is that that did seem to clear up the problem.

When we arrived in Newport, Oregon, the bar was open for all traffic and we were able to get in quite easily.  On the way in, we passed under highway 101 via a bridge built in 1936.  Passing beneath a bridge was another first for us.  Almost immediately we turned right into the Newport Marina and found a spot to tie up.  We will have to register in the morning as they are closed for the day now.

Found a brew-pub attached to the marina and had a really nice meal before hitting the sack pretty early again.  Tomorrow we will explore Newport, the largest town on the Oregon coast. Seems as if it could have a lot to offer and may require a few days.

{GMST}44|37.4337|N|124|3.1412|W|Newport, Oregon, USA|Newport, Oregon, USA{GEND}
{GMST}45|29.33|N|123|58.5|W|Cape Meares|Cape Meares{GEND}

Life of ease

Day 11 - Garibaldi, Oregon, USA

The town here in Tillimook Bay is not Tillimook (that is about 10 miles away).  This is the town of Garibaldi.

This is partially a "port" town, with some logging and fishing as the main industries.  Most of the boats in the marina are fishing boats, some are actually charters.  Most of the boats are so small, I am not sure when they are able to get out to the ocean since the bar always seems to be closed to at least some of them.

We spent the day walking around the town (really a highway town, being on route 101, the coastal highway).  We visited the Garibaldi Maritime museum and learned all about the history of Captain Gray, who first discovered this part of the Washington and Oregon coast, and the Columbia river, which he named after his ship, the Columbia.

This town seems to embody what we would call "small town USA".  Everybody seems to know everybody else, and they appear to have a good time, drinking Bud and scarfing burgers at the pub.  Very friendly folks too.  Garibaldi seems to be a town that has seen its share of economic ups and downs over the years, but it still looks very neat and clean.  One could do a lot worse than living here.  Me, I would probably go stir crazy pretty quick.

The transient dock, where we are currently moored is sure not busy.  I don't think they get many visitors, mostly due to the scary reputation of the "bar" crossing.  Right now, listening to the VHF bar reports, it appears that it is completely closed to recreational craft because of severe conditions, although where we are is seems quite calm.  We had planned on leaving tomorrow, but if we can't get out, I guess we will stay for a while - there are worse places we could be spending the time.  There are a couple of reasonably nice restaurants in town, and the prices seem very cheap to us.  Even the moorage here is only $20 per night.

{GMST}45|33.405|N|123|54.7095|W|Garibaldi, Oregon, USA|Garibaldi, Oregon, USA{GEND}

 

 

The Oregon Trail

Days 9 and 10 - Neah Bay to Tillimook Bay, Oregon

Dawn on Wednesday morning appeared with a beautiful sunrise, a promise of things to come.

We left our anchorage at Neah Bay by around 7:15 AM, and motored out once more into the Juan de Fuca strait.  A short time later, we rounded Cape Flattery in light NW winds and moderate seas - probably what one would call "good" if not "ideal" conditions.

As the day wore on, the sun got hot and the seas got a little rough, but generally we were happy with the overall state of affairs.

 

We caught up to the catamaran that had left from Neah Bay a short time before us.  We had a nice chat with them over the VHF.  They are a family of 5, mom and dad and 3 kids, heading directly for San Francisco.  When we passed them, they were motoring with their mainsail up to try and get some stability - I don't think is was doing much good myself.  We did not put up any sails until about noon, when we launched the Genoa to assist the engine - not really enough wind for us to sail at anything faster than about 2.5 knots without the engine.  It was weird seeing the other boat disappear and re-appear as the swell of the ocean was between us - something we had not experienced before.

By 4:30 in the afternoon, the NW winds strengthened and we were able to sail with the Genoa sail alone, at a nice, comfortable 5 knots.  Susanne started getting sick before noon and basically was out if it for the rest of the day, just able to lift her head up every 10 minutes of so when it was her watch.  As the day wore on, the winds kept getting stronger and I kept reefing in more and more of the Genoa to keep our speed between 5 and 6 knots.  This kept up until about 11:30 PM, when the winds died down and I had to motor until about 3:00 AM.  At that time, the winds returned and we were able to sail until about 9:00 AM, when they effectively went away for the rest of the day.

With Susanne not feeling well, she spent the night on the sofa, not really able to come out to play at all.  So, I did the entire night watch myself.  This being our first overnight passage, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was not so bad - quite black out until the moon came up around 10:30PM, but boats and buoys are lit up and easy to see, and the stars give some sense of the horizon.  I think I only saw 3 boats all night.

By morning, I was very tired, and Sue was not doing much better.  She was able to come out to the cockpit and do a watch while I tried to sleep, but my body was not cooperating - I always find it hard to sleep during the daylight, and it was another warm, clear and sunny day.  After some discussion, we decided to scrap the plan for a 2nd overnight passage to Newport, OR.  Instead, we headed into Tillimook Bay (we had already passed Gray's Harbour and the Columbia river bars), which we were approaching  at just the right time (slack water at 6:00 PM), with reasonable "bar" conditions.  We talked to the coast guard and took their advice on using the south hole entrance, with no difficulties.  This particular "bar" has one of the worst reputations along this coast but we did not have any problems - at the time we came across they were not allowing any boats shorter than 24' to attempt it.

You know you are getting further south when you start to see Pelicans.  They seem to be quite plentiful here.

A short motor into the winding bay, following a dredged channel (with the pelican rocks lining the edges), took us to the transient dock at the port.  Lots of room to tie up.  Once we were firmly attached to the dock, we took a short walk into town, located a lively pub, and had a bite to eat.  Sue was feeling a little better and even managed a bowl of soup.  Then to bed for a much needed rest.

{GMST}45|33.405|N|123|54.7095|W|Tillimook Bay, Oregon, USA|Tillimook Bay, Oregon, USA{GEND}